A night camping in a stranger’s field on the Manali-Kaza route, with no money, a cold wind from Rohtang Pass, and more kindness than we deserved.

Lost among the boulders at 3,900 metres on the way back to camp, with a growing headache, rain coming in, and no sight of the tents.

Five friends, a rented tent from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, and a bus to Govind Ghat — the beginning of a trek to the Valley of Flowers and Hemkund Sahib.