A day in the Parvati Valley with Keval, a young Gaddi shepherd — fire, chai, and a landscape that belongs to someone else entirely.

Lost among the boulders at 3,900 metres on the way back to camp, with a growing headache, rain coming in, and no sight of the tents.

Five friends, a rented tent from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, and a bus to Govind Ghat — the beginning of a trek to the Valley of Flowers and Hemkund Sahib.